Kocherlball

Last Sunday my alarm went off at 04:00 AM, which meant most of my friends in the U.S. were awake at 10:00PM, but I was gearing up for an event I have been waiting to see for quite some time. The Kocherlball is a folk-dance event that has been taking place since 1880 in which cooks, nannies, butlers, errand boys, etc. met up once a year in the early hours of the morning to dance at the Chinese Tower in the Englischer Garten in Munich. It was originally created so that these workers could have time to celebrate with one another, but also to meet potential lovers! This is what people had to do before internet dating. Traditionally, they arrived at 3:00 AM and returned when the sun came up and basically slipped away unnoticed.

Why so early? Well, this was the only time that they had to do so before they had to be back at work for their masters. Nowadays, many people still arrive at 03:00, but the dancing now starts promptly at 06:00 and goes until 10:00. I arrived about 4:45 AM and rode my bike through the night to arrive. Once I parked my bike, I walked through the darkness into the Englischer Garten to complete silence. Just when I knew I was about to arrive at the Chinese Tower, I could start to hear the rumbling of voices. As I continued walking, I could see the candle light through the trees and eventually once I turned the corner there were thousands in front of me clad in their traditional wear and sitting at the base of the tower eating and drinking with only candle light. I can’t even describe the feeling that I felt, but it was so exciting to see all those people there while it was still pitch dark. This was a traditional experience that made me so happy that I can basically only compare to how I felt at Oktoberfest two years ago.

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It eventually started to get lighter and more and more people began to arrive. At 06:00 the music and dancing began and it was so joyous to watch people be so happy and cheerful even at this early hour. It really gave me insight into why Bavaria has one of the highest qualities of life in the world, this was something traditional and tangible that the people in Munich have been preserving and gave them such joy. The city offered dance classes if people wanted to learn some of the dances beforehand, but you could basically just watch some of the people on the stage and follow along. Or as the MC of the event kept saying, just do whatever you want as long as you’re moving! The best was when she made photographers in the very front go away because she said that they were ruining it. That was welcomed with a lot of applause from the crowd! And I agree. While it may be a spectacle to many, you always run the risk of things becoming so commercial. I mean, where else is this sort of thing happening? I had such a great time and even though I was tired, I didn’t let that bother me. This event reminded me of yet more reasons why I love Munich and why I take pride in my decision to want to live here.

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All-in-all, 12.000 people were in attendance and on the following website you can see some better pictures & videos of the actual dancing: http://www.muenchen.de/veranstaltungen/event/8883.html#/

Three years later…here I am!

“I walked through the streets in a daze, like the city of my earliest dreams. Since it was clear that this in fact was the city in which I would spend my life.” – Falckenberg

“Ich ging durch die Straßen, ganz benommen, wie durch die Stadt meiner frühesten Träume. Da war mir klar, daß dies in Wahrheit die Stadt sei, in der ich mein Leben verbringen würde.” – Original quote in German

I mentioned in my first blog that I traveled to Munich during my backpacking trip, but the date of my first arrival was actually on July 16th, 2012 — three years ago today! When I was on my trip, I really didn’t have a major plan of where I was going, I just went where the wind blew. I fortunately made it to Munich within the last week of the trip, I can’t imagine what my life would be like now if I never did come. Remember how I said before that there’s a division between the north and the south of Germany? Well when I was in Dublin (the first stop of my backpacking trip), a guy named Kai from Hamburg, Germany told me not to go there saying it was horrible and not worth it. Well, it’s a good thing I never listened to him 😉 I did go to Hamburg for one day during my trip and it wasn’t as great as I expected. So again, each city in this world is just a matter of personal taste — but it takes you making the leap to go discover that for yourself!

I really cannot recall what image I had in my head of Munich before I came for the first time. In fact, I really couldn’t even picture it before I went. Looking back now, of course I saw the Chevy Chase movie European Vacation in which Munich is one of the destinations, but that wasn’t in my mind and it’s usually best not to let a movie give you a complete impression of real life. A few weeks later into my trip I finally did see a picture of the Marienplatz in Munich — that was all I needed to be swayed. I maybe had some clichés in my head such as lederhosen and beer, but I’m kind of glad I didn’t know too much because my eyes were opened so much to what life could be like on that very first day.

Some of the first impressions that I had once I arrived:

– People are very welcoming and inviting. They really want you to enjoy your time in their city and experience what it has to offer.

– The city of Munich is so well-kept, clean, and the city pays attention to every building and detail. There are a lot of subtleties in Munich.

– There is such a great mixture of modern, baroque, medieval, etc. Since Munich was rebuilt after the second world war to look as it had originally, the city still has this feel like you have stepped back in time. Other cities, such as Frankfurt, were just rebuilt completely from scratch (which is kind of depressing considering Frankfurt used to be the oldest preserved medieval city in all Europe).

– The public transit is unlike anything I have ever experienced. It’s quiet, smooth, clean and very punctual. They also use an honor system and you don’t have to swipe in or scan a ticket to enter a bus, tram, or underground train (they do have random ticket checkers now and then that will give you a fine if you don’t have a ticket, so everyone actually does buy a ticket for this reason).

– If you do happen to see people wearing their traditional wear (which is mostly for festivals, special occasions, or just for fun, people really aren’t just wearing lederhosen all the time), it’s truly for tradition’s sake and not for some sort of spectacle. The Bavarian people hold tradition at a very important level in their lives and it has much greater meaning to them than anything that we could ever compare it to in the U.S. With over 2000 years of Bavarian history, preserving this rich tradition is very important. There are even traditions that predate the Christian times that are still practices. It’s not some sort of show or Disneyland spectacle, it’s something that’s celebrated and is important to the people. This spirit of tradition is unlike anything I had ever experienced and I somehow wanted to be a part of it, if possible.

– People really enjoy and celebrate life. A great quote I’ve heard is, “Munich doesn’t want to be discussed, Munich wants to be lived and loved.” People are actually out and about and enjoying what the city has to offer, they’re not just sitting around at home talking about what they could be doing. They’re biking, sitting at cafés reading over a coffee, sitting by the river or at a fountain enjoying a beverage with their friends, they’re in the parks soaking up the sun or with their dogs, they’re shopping for fresh food, they’re going to festivals or maybe celebrating their rich tradition. Now sure, I did pretty much all of these things in New York City as well, but I was also sitting around my room and watching too much TV. Since I’ve been here a month in Munich, I’ve barely kept up with any of my shows and I haven’t cared either. I’ve been walking and biking more, talking with people more, and enjoying more what a city such as Munich and what life has to offer. Munich provides all of these easily for you, whereas in NYC I really felt like you had to try to find your niche and you had to try to make yourself happy. In Munich, I just feel happy!

So wow, three years later and I’m living here and learning German. I never thought that this would be a possibility when I first came to Munich, but with each and every additional trip, I wanted more and more for this to be a reality. It has been quite a long road to get me here today, and it took great preparation and planning, but everything now has been worth that. As I grow more into an adult than before, I’m glad that I was able to make it to Munich and find somewhere that made me this happy. I thought I knew what happiness was before, but Munich only unlocked the greater potential.

“Everything I see [in Munich], seems like a dream.” – Fjodor Iwanowitsch Tjutschew

Surprise trip to Berlin!

Sorry to keep you hanging about my Berlin trip since my last blog, I started my class last week and I’m trying to adjust to the schedule and having homework after not being a student for almost three years. It’s quite the adjustment, but I’m handling it well!

As I mentioned before, I was surprised with a trip to Berlin. I had no idea that I was going until the day of when I was presented with an overnight Megabus ticket and would be leaving that night. I packed just a few simple things with me such as my camera and a toothbrush, but that was about it. I boarded the 10:00 PM bus and was due to arrive in Berlin about 10 hours later. I had taken the Megabus once in the U.K., but never an overnight bus — it was definitely an interesting experience for sleeping to say the least. The bus wasn’t very crowded, so I didn’t have to have someone next to me, but being a tall guy it was very difficult to find a comfortable position for sleeping. I was surprised that I was able to sleep at all, but you basically are waking up every 30 minutes to an hour because you’re sore from the position that you’re laying in or the bus makes a pit stop or arrives at one of the destinations along the way. It was kind of annoying that they made so many stops, because technically we coul have gotten to Berlin in about half the time. I think they must be required by law to stop, but not only that, they have to keep the doors open in case people leave. It wasn’t so much an issue on the way there, but on the way back it was very cold outside and there was nothing we could do about it. I got maybe 4 hours of sleep but felt pretty fine after grabbing a coffee to-go at the bus station in Berlin.

Immediately we started our tour since we had about 11.5 hours in Berlin before we had to once again take another overnight bus back to Munich. The first stop was the Olympic Arena in which Berlin hosted the games in the summer of 1936. You may remember that this is where African-American athlete Jesse Owens won four gold medals in the sprint and long jump events and became the most successful athlete to compete in Berlin, while Jewish and Roma people had been banned from competing for Germany.

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From there we headed to Alexanderplatz, which is basically the center of Berlin. You’ll find here the tall TV tower, major transportation hub, outdoor markets, various nightlife, the world clock and more! I had a large, wonderful breakfast for fairly cheap and in a very nice setting. Berlin is known to be very inexpensive, so if you’re looking for somewhere cheap to travel to, I would recommend Berlin for that reason.

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Now, I had been to Berlin once before during my backpacking trip, but I feel like we didn’t get to see very much — at least outside the very city center. Berlin is very spread out and has many great neighborhoods, all with their own unique flair and character. I regret that the first time around I didn’t make it to all those places, because visiting Berlin was towards the very end of the trip and my friends and I were pretty exhausted. Not only that, in Berlin it’s customary to go out very late at night and sleep in most of the day. Well, when in Rome, do as the Romans do — when in Berlin, do as the Berliners do. It’s like when I visited Spain and found myself eating dinner at midnight my first night, these cultural things just happen when you’re trying to experience the culture of a new place. So while my friends and I did a three/four hour walking tour of Berlin the first time around, there is so much to see and so many places to visit outside of the center, that I was very grateful to be able to experience Berlin a second time.

Next was to visit the Old Town of Berlin, which is obviously reconstructed but it gives you an idea of what Berlin used to look like. I guess it goes without saying that Berlin was essentially completely destroyed after WWII, so they had to start back from scratch and didn’t so much reconstruct things to their original form like they did in Munich. Everywhere you go you see new construction sites. The construction never ends in Berlin, especially because many major construction projects are starting to take longer than expected and are running out of money. But hey, why worry when Bavaria is basically paying for it 😉

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After exploring much of the city center, including some sites that I had already seen before such as the German Bundestag (the parliament building), Brandenburg Tor, The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, and Potsdamer Platz, it was time to head into one of Berlin’s great neighborhoods!

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First was to visit where the Currywurst was invented, Konnopke´s Imbiss in Prenzlauer Berg. Since I’m a vegetarian, I was still able to have the veganne curry which was DELICIOUS! Curry and ketchup also go very well together for the fries.

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There were so many great looking restaurants, cafés, bars and little parks in Prenzlauer Berg. So many of them were stating that they were vegetarian/vegan restaurants or at least had an array of options. Berlin is probably the capital of vegetarians in Germany. Even though German food culture is defined primarily by meat, the latest that I have read is that 10% of Germans of vegetarian, and many more than that are also what I’d call part-time vegetarians. Since meat is the greatest contributor to global warning and Germans being so energy conscious, many people are mindful of how much meat they are eating and make sure that they have a balanced diet. It’s also the new hipster thing to do, so you can imagine that Berliners are all over that. It was really nice to walk through the streets of this neighborhood and see the unique style of buildings. You can tell that the area is getting more and more gentrified. People especially from the Swabian region of southern Germany are moving to this area and the rent prices are going up. Berliners really are not fond of the Swabians because of this but if Berlin didn’t already have enough problems with people from the south.

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From there we ventured to Charlottenburg where we finally rested after hours of walking to enjoy a glass of beer of Berlin — a green beer nonetheless! Berlin really is not known for beer, but it still beats American beer by far. It was a very nice street café and even had a little dose of Berlin street life when a group of alternative looking girls started doing this interpretive dance and singing in order to spread awareness about something happening in South America and rasing money for the cause, I wasn’t too sure what their message was, but it sort of reminded me of something that you’d see in NYC and definitely shows how Berliners are always cultivating their art.

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Afterwards there was a little Pride street festival going on and walked through a little bit. I love how German cities are always providing so many festivals and things to do, especially on the weekends. It got very crowded so we ventured back to the center of town and met up with Martin’s friend from London who is living in Berlin. We found one of the most noteworthy cafés for some coffee and cake, and it was still very reasonably priced for being a little more upscale and where it was located — still cheaper than Munich standards. His friend mentioned that you can get long drinks in Berlin for about 4-5 euros, where in Munich they’d be more likely to be 8-12 euros depending on where you’re going. Once again, Berlin is the best place for cheap food and drink! After great conversation and finally stopping for some pizza, it was time to venture back to the bus station to head back to Munich. After another 10+ hour overnight trip to Munich, we arrived at about 6:30 AM and went back home to crash. It was so nice to have a real bed and I snuggled up like none other after a very cold bus ride. Little did I know that I’d be doing the same thing again the next weekend when venturing on yet another surprise trip to Cologne.

All-in-all, I had a great time in Berlin and I was honestly shocked at how well I handled the little sleep the nigh before. We essentially walked around all day and saw as much as possible. I saw many more things than I originally had my first trip to Berlin, but I also got a lot more insight to the culture and flair of Berlin. Berlin is very large and spread out, and has some of the best museums in the world, but you do sort of miss out on the traditional flair of Munich. Berlin also has the complicated history with the communism regime of East Germany and the saga of the Berlin Wall, so many of the buildings were built during the soviet era and aren’t exactly as nice as they could be, but most of the neighborhoods have wonderful, colorful buildings, very large and green side walks, and graffiti and street art everywhere around you. Berlin truly embraces artists from all walks of life, even if those people aren’t necessarily working professionally as artists. You don’t have to have a paycheck or a contract to be an artist. Berlin s definitely defined by going out late and staying out late, with most people not coming home well until the sun has already come up. Don’t you dare thing about going out in Berlin before 11PM, but 1AM is probably the better choice. There are even some 24-hour weekend clubs. Most famous is Berghain where it opens on Friday night and closes on Monday morning without closing at all during that time-period. Some people are even known to stay in there for the entire weekend without leaving. This party lifestyle developed originally during the golden age at the turn of the century and into the 20’s, but it truly evolved to the way it is now in the modern club era from when the Berlin Wall was up. I had talked to a woman from Berlin a few years back and she explained to me how basically the club scene developed because there wasn’t much else to do in East Germany except party, and party all night. Berlin is home to some of the top rated clubs in the world, and their bars are known to be small and smokey. This definitely isn’t for everyone, but it’s fun to experience a little glimpse of it.

If you want to try somewhere new, I would definitely recommend Berlin, even if you aren’t into the party scene. The Museum Island is a World Heritage Site, and one of the museums contains a wall from the era of King Nebuchadnezzar II of Babylon constructed in 575 B.C. As I mentioned, Berlin is very inexpensive and won’t break your bank. There is also really great Turkish food everywhere due to the high population of Turks that live there, they even speak their own dialect of German! You can even have a pee at one of the city’s many street Pissoirs, convientantly located for those times you’re walking around and suddenly need the toilet — something that NYC desperately needs! Venture through the various neighborhoods, parks and even score some great finds at the many second-hand stores scattered around. If you do want to party, then Berlin is the capital of Europe when it comes to that — just make sure you give yourself some time to see some sights instead of sleeping all day. I had a great 11.5 hours in Berlin and still want to come back soon because there is still yet so much to see.

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The Complicated Relationship Between Munich and Berlin

Munich and Berlin have a very…complicated relationship with each other. But this is nothing new, this animosity towards each other has been around for quite some time and the two could not be more different. Here is the insight that I picked up from spending time in both cities and talking with the people from both, some things may be a little generalized, so feel free to ask me to explain things more thoroughly if needed or if any of the things I bring up need some clarification. We’re talking so many years of complicated history that cannot be compared to in the U.S. because the country is still a young country and whatever cultural differences we have and such are only a semblance of Germany has experienced. It basically all started with the Austro-Prussian war when the Kingdom of Bavaria was caught in the middle geographically between the other kingdoms. When forced to pick a side, Bavaria joined forces with the Austrians since they had closer ties both politically and culturally, however, this did not prove to be the right choice as they were defeated by the Prussians in 1866. When France then attacked Prussia in 1870 in The Franco-Prussian War, many of the German states came together to eventually form the German Empire. So not only did the two empires fight a war against each other, but they shortly after had to join forces to defeat France. To top it all off, Bavaria has always been a Catholic state, while Prussia was Protestant. If you know anything about history, then you know the problems that this also has caused (and many other wars).

Not only do Berlin and Munich not share a common history together until about 150 years ago, but they could also not be more different culturally. Bavaria has most of the clichés that people associate incorrectly with Germany (lederhosen, dirndl, brass music, mountains, etc.), while there is not anything remaining traditionally regarding Prussian identity. In 1920, Berlin was the largest city in Europe and the second largest city in the world behind Los Angeles. During the golden age at the turn of the century and continuing into the 1920’s, Berlin was attracting the glamour, the shimmer, the high life, the artists one associates with this — I mean, if you’ve ever seen Caberet you’ll know what I’m talking about. Munich also had this golden age, but they were attracting the high intellectuals — both artistically and scientifically (Albert Einstein), the writers (Hemingway, Frank Wedekind) and the likes. Nowadays, Berlin is known as the ultimate city for parties and nightlife, hipsters, artists, and for the outcast to find a home. Munich, and Bavaria as a whole, retains their 2000 years of history on the outside, while also being an incredibly modern city on the inside. Munichers would say that Berliners are lazy, poor, trashy and fake, while Berliners would say that Munichers are stuck up, arrogant, snobby and living in the past. Stereotypes are stereotypes, but given everything I just mentioned, you can see why both groups are holding onto those. What makes this all the more complicated though is that Bavaria is literally paying for Berlin. There is a transferral union in Germany in which the richer states give money to the poorer states. There are 16 states in Germany — Berlin is a city-state like Hamburg, while the rest are mostly larger states in the federation such as Saxony, as you might also recognize historically from history class as well. Bavaria really rose from agriculture to industry in the 1950’s and is now home to major companies such as BMV, Audi, Siemens, Adidas, Bosch and Allianz. Berlin basically never attracted those types and really does find itself lacking money. So with the tax system, Bavaria forks over about five billion euros every year to the transferral union and along with the money from other states, Berlin and other cities that are lacking money receive those funds. While Berlin is now today the capital of Germany, many people refer to Munich as the “secret capital.” Given all of these things, you can see why there is animosity between the two places and why many Munichers and Berliners basically hate each other.

OK BUT MAJOR DISCLAIMER! I must say, that while it might seem that I portrayed Berlin more negatively than Munich — I really, really love both cities. Obviously Munich a little more because I live here instead of there, but Berlin has many wonderful qualities, people, sights and character. First of all, Berlin is a very physically green city. Berlin is such a big city that after WWII, they purposefully filled Berlin with trees EVERYWHERE! They have very wide sidewalks and they are all lined with trees. Munich is so dense that it cannot compare to Berlin in this fashion at all, and they certainly can’t sacrifice driving or walking space, even though they wish the city was more green. But head to a beer garden or anywhere outside the city and that’s where you’ll find plenty of trees! Also, Berlin has the street art and graffiti that Munich is missing. While both cities certainly have their own character, you can see how in Berlin so much of it is inspired by the artists and those trying to spread their art with the public. These sort of things are very carefully planned out in Munich, especially since they want things to match their surroundings (although Munich is trying hard to give more space to street artists and such, but change is more difficult in Munich overall 😉 ). Berlin is also very cheap and you can essentially get an apartment four times the size than you could in Munich for the same price. Berlin too has things that Munich does not have, and each city tries to shove what the other doesn’t have in each other’s face.

The people both in Berlin and in Munich are very welcoming, and they all really like when I say that I was living in NYC too. Just like any city in the world, every city has their own likable and not so likable qualities, and those opinions differ from person-to-person. And that’s ok! I really love the rich tradition of Bavaria, but I also love what Berlin has to offer. Berliners just kind of take over the city and make it their own, doesn’t matter where or why. Whereas Munich truly provides for you and gives you what you need in the city. I really enjoy both mentalities and it’s always refreshing to experience the flip-side. Now that you have some insight into the relationships between the two cities, maybe things are a little more clear. I encourage anyone to visit both to get the full picture of Germany and all of the intricacies, subtleties, and complicated history/culture that exists. My next post will be about a surprise trip to Berlin my first weekend after moving here, since once my language course has started I will have less time to be able to take side trips.

With that I’m headed to bed, while I had originally intended for this post to be about the trip to Berlin, I found that once I started writing I couldn’t talk about Berlin without giving some back story first. Until next time!

Becoming A Citizen of Munich

Yesterday I took an exam with Deutschkurse bei der Universität München, the school I will be taking my language courses at, which is partnered with their University in Munich. I signed up for level B1 (when learning a language it is divided up into six sections: A1, A2, B1…etc.) and needed to take the exam to place out of the A2 level. I pretty heavily studied the past weeks for this exam, but since I’ve been compeltely self-taught up until this point, I was having the feeling that I was behind because I lacked a teacher’s instruction. Especially when using Rosetta Stone, you’re only learning by association, like a child would, there’s no walk-through of what and why rules are what they are. Believe me, the Germanlanguage is all about rules (and exceptions). When I got my practice exam last week, I realized that I was behind because there were all the gramatical terms I had never been taught (relative pronouns, passive voice, present perfect, and so forth). We have most of these same things in English, but obviously they manifest themselves very differently in German and they are more complicated. While I was familar with the concepts, I didn’t know HOW or WHY for a lot of the grammar. So while this exam was quite a struggle, I think it will be good for me to start with A2 afterall so that I can truly learn all of the nitty gritty basics of the language before I continue onward to the more advanced levels. I get my results on Sunday, so we shall see. I did my best and that’s all I can do.

Rewind though back to my first few days in Munich. When someone is staying in German for more than two months, one must register their place of residence with the city. I had planned to do this my third day in Munich, but checking the website the night before, I learned that the office would be closed that Friday due to major software upgrades. So after an extremely eventful weekend [my next blog post 😉 ] I ventured to the registration office and after about three hours I was officialy registered as a citizen of Munich! Not only does this declare my address, but it also means that I can vote in Munich elections. Not state or national elections, but just things that pertain to the city of Munich. I think that’s pretty great, it makes me feel loved by this city (their previous slogan was afterall, Munich Loves You). Since German has a true democracy, I could already start a petition if I wanted to. Basicaly any petition that is either deemed by the city, or has enough signatures from the public, can be held up for a referendum. Who knows, maybe I’ll get involved with some cause soon enough! I’ve already signed a petition at a festival to eliminate gestation cages for factory farmed pigs, hopefully that gets enough signatures soon enough.

But registration in Munich was only the first part of becoming a citizen, what I truly needed to complete that process was to be in posession of…A BIKE! Now, I had wanted to become a bike rider for quite some time, but it was something that would have basically been impossible for me in New York City. First of all, I had no way to store a bike in my apartment. Second, there are not enough adaquate bike lanes, and even if they do exist, people rudely walk inside of them and it makes riding a bike very difficult. But of course the biggest reason is because of how dangerous it is in NYC. I don’t need to explain the driving situation in the city, but also unfortunately, many bike riders do not even follow the rules. This makes a very difficult relationship between drivers and bikers and it’s not always pretty. But Europe is way different in their attitude towards bikers. Biking is obviously encourages over driving a car, but it’s oftentimes faster and is also great if for any reason there are ever any public transportation issues. Munich has dedicated bike lanes all over the city, and for smaller streets that do not require them, the drivers know how to navigate the streets along with the bikers. Not only is bike riding now the “hipster” thing to do, but it’s always been popular in Europe. Riding a bike in Munch basicaly feels like you’re in Copenhagen or some Dutch city. Ok not Amsterdam, that’s on whole different level, but mabe sometimes during the morning commute. Long story short, I was given a bike from someone that was receiving a new one, so now I truly felt like a real citizen of Munich! I got right up on the bike and had no problems riding it, the next step was to start to learn the rules. My main challenge going forward will be navigating directions until I get better acquinted with directions in the city, but it feels so liberating to ride a bike on the streets of Munich. Munich is the perfect city to see by bike, especially since there are so many gorgeous buildings and sights to see on the way. Biking is a way of life in Munich, and I am so happy to finally be able to experience this dream. Not only will it make me more of an active person, but I feel like riding a bike makes you happier than if you’re driving a car or taking public transit. Now that I have a working sim card, at least I can use my phone for navigation as well.

Here’s a picture of me my first day with my bike, I had just rode to the beer garden with some groceries.

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So here’s to officially being a citizen of Munich! I truly haven’t felt so happy in such a long time. Other than the last two days of exam stress, I have not been this stress free in quite a while and just feel a sense of love for life unlike I have ever experienced. They say that bike riding has a calmng affect on the mind, so there will definitely be a lot of bike riding in my future.

Day 2: Trip to the Volksbad

Sorry for no update yesterday — I was out and about all day showing my friend from Atlanta around Munich, it was such a hot day and they say that the hot weather is finally here to stay (June was colder than usual for Germany). Hot winds from the Sahara Desert are bringing hot temperatues to Europe this next week, I think I’ll be chilling near the water or in a beer garden this weekend to stay cool.

Backing up to my second day in Munich, this is a day that I actually had planned for a while. I was feeling well rested and handling the jet lag just fine, but I wanted to kick up my relaxation a notch by taking a trip to the Munich Volksbad – “people’s bath.” The Volksbad opened in 1901 to the public and it is the oldest swimming pool in Munich and one of the finest bathhouses in Europe. It has typical Art Nouveau architecture and it is one of the best ways to feel like you have been transfered back in time. There are also numerous baroque elements such as wall paintings, stucco, bronze statues and iron railings. I had been to the Volksbad once before and it has become my new tradition for relaxation after a long day of travel and jet lag. I spent a total of three and a half hours in the various saunas, steam rooms and bathing pools. There are four sauna rooms (each at a different temperatue), many different types of bathing and swimming pools, an outdoor courtyard, many sitting and relaxation rooms, and an intense steam room.

Here is the thing that is likely to throw off my American friends though, the Volksbad is completely mixed gender AND nude. This might be strange to some because in the states, saunas are usually always separated by gender. If they aren’t, then they aren’t likely to be completely nude. This is bathing like the Romans at it’s finest! First of all, most Europeans are very comfortable with nudity, but Germans are probably the most comfortable of them all by far. This cultural aspect particularily developed in East Germany during the communist regime as a way of liberation. Germans are also educated and exposed to the sight and mechnics of the human body from a young age (everyone has a body and private parts, so why hide that fact? Most children even have this notion from a very young age), their TV programs do not blur out breasts as they would in the states, it is a shared value not to be ashamed of the human body (even despite imperfections one might have), and in general there is not the taboo about nudity or even sex in Germany. When you remove the taboo about the human body, there’s no reason to be ashamed or embarrased. Nudity literally unites and liberates Germans. It similar to the way Europeans treat alcohol, they are exposed to it at a younger age then we are in the states and their parents do a better job at educating them about it — again it, removes the taboo against it and therefore people are less likely to abuse it. I feel like in general, Americans are extremely prudish when it comes to nudity and sex. Hmmm, I wonder why we have the highest rate of STDs and teen pregnancy in the western world? When you are open and confront these things head on, again, you’re less likely to abuse those things or misunderstand them.

Still not convinved, my American friends? Well, the act of being naked has NOTHING to do with sex, the sight of the human body is completely normal and natural. I mean, most indigenous cultures are still largely walking around naked, and clothing is basically a modern invention when you think about how long the humans has been walking this Earth. When you go to a nude beach or the sauna, you’re not there to stare at others or to get aroused, you’re there to relax and keep to yourself. There is nothing sexual about swimming or sweating in a sauna. I feel like even though Americans generally have a taboo about nudity, our culture also wants to sexualize everything — it’s a contradition I’ve always felt while living in the states that didn’t make sense to me. But even the Volksbad has woman only hours every few days, but I think that’s great beause they provide that option for women who might not feel comfortable being surrounded by men. When I was there during the daytime hours, there were essentially only middle-aged/older men around, and of course that could make some younger women feel uncomfortable. I was the youngest person there because everyone else was of course either at work or school during the hours of the day that I went.

volksbad---sauna1

So for those three and a half hours while I was nude at the Volksbad, I truly felt FREE. I wasn’t worried about what other people were thinking of me, no one was staring at me or even approached me, and even though there was a woman from time-to-time across from me in the sauna, it did not phase me whatsoever. AND WHY SHOULD IT?! I wasn’t thinking about anyone else, I was thinking about how much longer I could tolerate being in the sauna before I needed to get back into the cool bathing pool. This was a freedom unlike I had ever experienced and it was the best possible way for me to relax and detox after my long day of travel the day before. I could go to the sauna every day if I could, but since I’m now a student again, I have to watch every euro I spend. There are six or so outdoor places in Munich where you are allowed to be nude, most in parks or near the Isar river. When the temperature gets too hot to handle, I think I’ll also make a venture to a nude section somewhere. I mean, at least you do not have to worry about tan lines! 😉